Today it feels like the hostage crisis is old news and younger Iranians have moved on. Thank you. Well … Their home is as contemporary and up to date as you'd find anywhere. The collection starts in prehistoric times, back when nomadic hunters were becoming farmers. About people? And the flip side of fear is understanding. The murals seemed to drone on like an unwanted call to battle — a call which people I encountered it seems had simply stopped hearing. Any interaction between men and women seemed very discrete. With a teeming population of about ten million, its apartment blocks stretch far into the surrounding mountains. So, it surprised me. The greatest concentration of anti-American murals surrounds the former US Embassy. The earliest Persian kings were Zoroastrian. Rick: What do you study? The figure on the eagle's wing, that symbol of the Zoroastrian faith, is a reminder that the king's power came from Ahuramazda — the Zoroastrian god. Skylines are not punctuated with minarets; I barely heard a call to prayer. Girls: OK, yeah, they find us. Iran served as a thoroughfare for the legendary Silk Road. [Woman reading poem in Farsi (translation below)], The links of the beloved's hair form a chain of suffering That's when the CIA engineered a coup that over threw the democratically elected prime minister Mossadegh. And this one glorifies Hezbollah fighters and their struggle with Israel which many here consider Americas' 51st state. Girls: On the river? Bye bye. Iran's rich history goes back millennia, to the days when Persepolis was home to "the king of kings." So the governments have a difficult time but the people, if we meet the people, it's like this…(links fingers). Browsing in its malls and classy shops, you could be in London or Paris. In the first part of Rick's Iran lecture, we learn what inspired Rick to make "Rick Steves' Iran" and about his experience landing in Tehran. The countless gold shops are a reminder that for locals — especially the women — gold is a solid way to keep your wealth. Iranian oil may again flow westward. Every country, including our own, limits access to foreign film crews. Wish we were there with you. Rick Steves Join Rick as he explores the most surprising and fascinating land he's ever visited: Iran. One of the finest cities in Islam and the cultural heart of Iran, it's famous for its dazzling blue tiled domes and romantic bridges. Thanks for joining us. This disturbing mix of politics and religion apparently results from a deep seated resentment of Western culture imposed on their world. The Shah who had fled to Rome comes home backed by General Zahedi military strong-man who engineered his return to power. Rick: All of you are chemistry! Gigantic royal tombs, reminiscent of those built for Egyptian pharaohs, are cut into the adjacent mountainside. Join Rick as he explores the most surprising and fascinating land he's ever visited: Iran. Rick: Thank you; that's nice to hear. But wandering through campus, we learned that free tuition comes with strict guidelines as dictated by the theocracy. Girls: OK, we may meet a boy, but we are not supposed to find a boy. No, we just come here with our families. Iran, twice the size of France, sits in an increasingly important corner of Asia — surrounded by Turkey, Iraq, Pakistan, and Afghanistan. Woman: Yes, I like to be. All the portraits and all the dates are from the 1980s. But that's handy for a conservative Muslim woman. And should I give up life in pursuit of her favor Is this good? Iran’s Shiraz, Poets, and Dinner with Iranian Friends. Today, August 16, 2009 a progam was shown on the “Create” channel here in Southeast Florida with Rick Steves in Iran. Whatever the root causes — religious or nationalism…the Sunni and Shiite Muslims share a bloody past. In this first of two half-hour shows on Iran, Rick dodges traffic in Tehran, enjoys the tranquility of a nearby village, and encounters both anti-American propaganda and a warm welcome from everyday Iranians. Should I skip Tehran and go straight to Isfahan and Shiraz? Rick: I'll shake your hand for her…OK? What year is it? In this first of two half-hour shows on Iran, Rick dodges traffic in Tehran, enjoys the tranquility of a nearby village, and encounters both anti-American propaganda and a warm welcome from everyday Iranians. Rick: That's good, I hope you're happy. Many of these people could afford to live abroad, but prefer to live as economic elites here in the ritziest corner of Tehran. This austere yet holy mosque was dedicated to the Muslim equivalent of a saint. That one? Girls: We love them… OK, we love the people in America. They should be friends. Rick: Yeah. no pity at all; I love the beloved more than my life…. Locals say it's like "going to Chechnya.". It's quite selective — only about one in ten applicants get in. Writing in the 13th century he drew from his extensive travels and interactions with people from all walks of life. Woman: Chemistry. I'd always dreamed of visiting Persepolis and it didn't disappoint. And today in this predominately Muslim society a small Zoroastrian community still survives and worships freely. Scenes in its grand hall show how, around four centuries ago, the king or shah maintained, defended, and expanded his empire. Except for women's dress codes and the lack of American products and advertising, life on the streets here seemed much the same as in secular cities elsewhere in the developing world. Rick: Nooshe jan, nooshe jan. At the "Nations' Gate" dignitaries from the 28 nations subjugated by Persia entered "we're not worthy"-style to pay their taxes and humble respect to the emperor. If you think it's inappropriate for a travel writer to stir up discussion on his blog with political observations and insights gained from traveling abroad, you may not want to read any further. We're dropping into a shop for a little lesson. For me, the village highlight was meeting its people. Woman: Yes, government has a lot of war with each other because they benefit but there's no war between people. This subway system is really as good as anything I've seen in Europe. For me, this is a journey of discovery. So for Americans we are a very religious people but we make the government and the church apart you know? Guide: The same as bon appétit. Rick: But these differences seem small, but still, many people are dying, and I read in the news Sunni fighting Shiite. Straddling its river, Esfahan is famous for its marvelous bridges which date to the 17th century. To cross town quickly, motorcycle taxis are a blessing. That's why Sunni Muslims, Christians and Jews are tolerated but Bahai's (whose prophet, Baha u llah, came in the 19th century) are not. There are two types: Nomadic and city-woven. After a few hours we reach Esfahan. Travel with Rick on this video guide to Cairo, Egypt, and find out what to do on your next trip. It's traditional in Iran to picnic at the gravesites of lost loved ones. So you have no worries about this. This creates a visual chant of Koranic verses praising Allah — or God. The vast complex is a series of royal palaces built on a massive elevated terrace. Surprisingly...it works. Then, defending his empire, the shah battles the Ottoman Turks — with their frightening new artillery — and manages to stop the Ottoman's Eastward juggernaut. We visit the National Museum of Iran to learn about Iran’s history. Because we love the…we want to understand the people of Iran and if we can make friends, it's a good thing, I think. This is the chicken. Then, as today, Iranians celebrated their new year on the 21st of March, the first day of spring. Rick: For example, the people are not angry with America. the man, not thus bound, remains unaware of this tale. In 1979, Iranian university students successfully stormed the embassy, they took 52 hostages, and held them with the world looking on for 444 days. These murals mix religion, patriotism, and a heritage of dealing with foreign intervention. And we're working within the limits it sets as we explore this complex society. Another local treasure is so typical of this land that the words just fit together: Persian carpets. For me, very difficult. Many major streets actually intersect without the help of traffic lights. This in turn led to this website with Rick’s comment about his experiences there: The only danger I could imagine during my visit would be something explosive falling … Knowing we're here to explore social and cultural dimensions rather than contentious political issues, the Iranian government is allowing our work. Woman 2: Chemistry. Today, the Iranian government recognizes the value and the fragility of its heritage and it's working to preserve it. This is not a democracy. Iranians visit with a great sense of pride. I don't know what the word is in Farsi…but they've got the paseo. Rick: That's a very interesting point. Finally, with the establishment of a Third Persian Empire in the 16th century, this culture enjoyed a renaissance. Woman: Yes, it's a law in Iran. In this first of two half-hour shows on Iran, Rick dodges traffic in Tehran What are my hopes? Of Iran's 70 million people, well over half are under the age of 30. Rick: Yeah? Shot in Tehran, Shiraz, Esfahan, Persepolis and villages in between, RICK STEVES' IRAN details the country's rich artistic and cultural heritage. Venturing up a river valley, where water brings life to the landscape, we find a timeless moment: a shepherd watching over his flock. Maybe we're all just struggling to defend the moral fabric of our respective societies. Zoroastrianism, which predates Islam by over a thousand years, is a reminder that Iranian or Persian culture goes back long before the 7th century advent of Islam. ". My first impression: wild drivers. Some Iranians claim the hostage crisis was a way to radicalize the Islamic revolution and put the hard-liners in power. Before I know it my plate is filled with fish, kebabs, two kinds of rice, eggplant, and tomatoes…the conversation is as lively as at any home I've visited in Europe. The few tourists — mostly Iranian — wander through admiring the simple architecture and fine old wooden balconies. And, just across the stream, stands a caravansary — a road-side inn going back to the Middle Ages and the days of Marco Polo. This scene may be chic, but I heard that the real partying goes on in the privacy of people's homes. Waging what I would imagine was very high powered diplomacy; the shah threw extravagant banquets in this very palace. ", Rick: Salaam a'alaykum… If that's too long for me and I want to just say "hi.". His lyrical poems are noted for their beauty. Filled with thousands of worshippers, the mosque comes to life. What is this?< But there are perplexing differences: women worship in a separate section; soldiers stand guard among the worshippers — a reminder of the tensions within today's Islamic world; … and the seemingly innocuous yellow banner in the background proclaims death to Israel. To a Western viewpoint, the dress code imposed on women seems disrespectful. In this recurring scene, a lion kills a bull symbolizing spring killing winter and bringing new life. They use different calendars: Persian/Muslim and Western. Wow! keywords This medallion symbolized humankind finding enlightenment in the one Zoroastrian god. Persian carpets go back twenty five hundred years and have a rich tradition. And the conflict continues. Rick: That's what people say: If you want to eat well in Iran, make some friends. It's a smoggy, mile high metropolis. Terms of Service | Privacy, "Rick Steves' Iran: Yesterday and Today. Then in about 500 BC, with the great kings Darius and Xerxes, the mighty Persian Empire was established. This subway system is really as good as anything I've seen in Europe. I find these caravansaries evocative. Then I learned that most of its treasures were destroyed or looted by invaders and much of what survived was taken away to the great museums in the West. Rick: What do you study? Rick: How many? Leaving Tehran was quick and easy with its impressive system of highways. This scene struck me as similar to a church service back home — sermon… responsive reading… lots of prayer… lots of getting up, and getting down. The entrance shows the geometric motif the Persians were famous for.